RR :: Winter 2017

Now the real work begins, trying to remember where all the parts go !

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Whilst money is very short, I worked on the bulkhead, being told that I shouldn’t use an electric wire brush, days after using one to get rid of the bar corrosion and finish.

was tempted to leave the bulkhead, as I thought it would be good to leave parts “as found”

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Before …




Mild wet and dry with loads of WD40 soon got it back to a nice finish, good decision!

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You can quickly see where Novembers spare cash was invested, all €765 of it!

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Wherever you look, there was rotten woodwork, needing copied from these templates.

November 2017

When researching past owners, NF contacted a charming lady whose husband owned the car between July 1998 and 2011. In a recent email, she said she still had some parts in her loft and would get her son to find them when getting the Christmas decorations down.

“I have spoken to my son recently.  He was asked by my late husband, William Whelan, to look at the car and perhaps start some repairs on it, though he never did for lack of time and cash. 
He recalls that William purchased it through Bonham’s Car Auctions.  This, we think was around 1998.   He recalls that the car arrived on low loader.  There was a lot needed mending.  We don’t think it was ever in good enough condition to be driven. We cannot recall how much he bought it for, but I seem to recall that he got his basic money back when he sold it to the Gent in Minster, near. Ramsgate, who, think you bought it from. (not strictly true but who cares).

My son thinks that if any bits are still here from it then they are in my attic. When he goes up there to retrieve the Xmas decorations he will look to see if he can find anything.

We will look up amongst the many items of treasure that William has left behind!   I will let you know if anything is found and you can collect.”

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NF found this picture of son David from around 2004, looking happy with the Rolls.


Sadly, she only went downhill from then, woodworms like to eat and metal wants to return to its original state – rust

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Hinge pins…………..







Planned colour  scheme

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Part 15 :: December 2017

Before considering refilling the body to the chassis there are 5 main areas to work on:

NeilsRollsRoyce - RR1929_Neil_20170604_124744.jpgWiring harness – Wiring has been ordered from Phil Cordery in Anglesey, Wales, a highly recommended classic car re-wiring expect, who I met a month ago. He had 6 classic cars in his garage, only uses the PVC and cotton covered wires to the specific wiring diagram for the chassis number. I already have the replacement aluminium wiring conduit to replace to rusty steel tubing that came off with a long crow bar and lots of muscle. It will also be easier to re-wire the dashboard while getting easy access to the wires between instruments and the fusebox.


The old wiring may date back to when the car was re-bodied in the 1930’s……

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NeilsRollsRoyce - RR1929_Neil_20171203_085714.jpgBrakes – Because of the severe rust and sandblasting, 60 + years without being look at and the need to use 7 special RR tools to service the front and back brakes, these are a bit overdue. The Rolls Royce Enthusiasts Club rent the tools at sensible prices to members and I am hoping Christmas will be warm this year with no unexpected surprises inside the brake units…NeilsRollsRoyce - RR1929_Neil_IMG_9278.jpg




NeilsRollsRoyce - RR1929_Neil_20170627_124437.jpgSuspension – 2 of the guides were broken on the rear, so Liam in the Headford Garage kindly welded new studs for free. I am also hoping the new suspension stop block rubbers will be ready and back from Specialist Mouldings Ltd, Johannesburg. They were posted on the 20th July for coping…New gaiters have been measured and being made near Bristol. The car only has 2 out of 8 fitted when bought and they stop the dirt getting in and when packed with grease, will make for a smooth ride (if she ever starts).

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The broken guides, spotted when taking measurements              The old gaiter, probably in place for 60 years +NeilsRollsRoyce - RR1929_Neil_20170409_081259.jpg


The front and rear suspension stop blocks were in a bad way, used as templates for the supplier to make as new

4.Exhaust – I just found that the main fixing nut has no thread and was welded to the man

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Money – I have run out again, so I must delay “rushing” Martin to fix the various rotten bits of bodywork

Part 16 :: End December 2017

Summary of repairs at a Galway Engineering firm between March – Dec 2017

This list is just parts given to a company to copy, repair or make from rough drawings supplied by myself during the last year

1.       Weld 2” end back onto lower mudguard bracket

2.       Make 3.5” extension grip for starting handle (“turning” metal preferred)

3.       Make two 2 – 3mm thick rectangular shaped brackets 20 cm x 6 cm (one rusted bracket supplied, with 6 pre-drilled holes) with the 6 holes for wing brackets

4.       Make two 16” long angle iron brackets with matching holes (don’t need to be tapped) for running board to wing mount

5.       Make supporting plate to fill 12” rust gap and straighten out large front vented panel plus make triangular starting handle pendulum cover roughly 3mm thick (no hole)

plus make inspection cover plate to fit over square where bracket is missing

6.       Reinforce welding to 7” wheel cover plate where badly cracked in centre

7.       Reinforce 3” of wing bracket at badly corroded end mounting.

8.       Repair 2” radiator cooling bracket (broken clamp hole)

9.       Make a new 10” x 8 “fuel Auto vacuum tank which has totally rusted through

10.    Weld and repair the side / top plates of the 12-gallon fuel tank, as it has 2 small rust also, replace brass drain plug which I cannot remove with alternative drain plug and fit new filler neck from Bentley one bought on eBay

11.    Drill out broken stud from bonnet end fork, re-tap and weld adjustable replacement stud to end of 1m black bar

12.    Replace the two 1.3m lower bonnet strips for the full length of the aluminium brackets – see templates for corroded end part of both strips, but replace as new

13.    Make two x 17 cms long door “stop” straps, in stainless steel and using a double-sided metal semi-circular bracket at one end, screw hole in other.

14.    Make one stainless steel metal strap for the wooden battery box, one to replace existing strap, to support the rotten wood.

15.    Make one replacement 17 cms long door “stop” strap, with stainless steel material and two metal semi-circular brackets at one end, screw hole in other, as per sample (which has one semi-circular bit missing)

16.    Make four stainless steel alignment brackets (with two holes and stopper) like silver one supplied, which holds the bonnet in the right position when lowered down.

17.    Make one circular nut (like the one supplied) to fit door handle supplied.

18.    Left Air Vent bracket:

–          Replace all eight screws holding the four mounting and mesh brackets in place

–          Find six new screws for mesh grill

19.    Right Air Vent Bracket:

–          Repair broken curved O bracket on Right Air Vent to outer mounting plate

–          Fix two screws to angled black plate back to bracket with new screws and inserts.

–          Find two replacement screws for brass stub bracket

–          If possible, make new vent / mesh grill like left vent plate. (change both if necessary so they look similar, if not too expensive)

20.    Replace Aluminium brackets on either side of floor board, to the ends of each side (parts are missing) 0.7m and 0.3m long

21.    Radiator repairs:

–          Remove sheered bolt from aluminium bracket inside top front of radiator

–          Unscrew other bolt and replace with two fresh bolts plus two spare bolts (for the other bracket I have at home)

–          Make two new radiator support brackets – top hat section 21cm long

–          Can you carefully remove the single slat from the operating mechanism?

–          Make new connecting brackets and linkages that turn the heating slats. Some parts are broken, some are missing.  A 2” bracket was supplied under repair list 1 Item 8 of 13/3 – see A4 picture

–          Make an aluminium radiation town cap, to rough dimensions supplied

22.     Interiors:

–          Make six stainless or ordinary steel 30mm cupped spacers like the one attached – I can get them chrome plated if necessary.

–          Modify the four copy window handles, tap out the side and inner threads for the handles – the side taped hole requires long grub screws (two of the replacement handles have a square fitting which was wrong, they all need screw in fitting)

–          Copy and replace the Rear RHS window support bar and weld connecting L bracket to new bar.

–          Make a 2nd copy window support bar and connecting L bracket (for Rear LHS window) as it was missing, same length and bracket as above. Fittings opposite way around.

–          Repair the broken side on the door mechanism – one tong has broken off

–          Make ten new door hinge pins

23.    Replace the aluminium 58cm x 92cm floor panel

24.    Cut the cylinder rod, so whole length is like old one and tap same as old one

25.    Make two hollow bolts, like the one attached, using similar dimensions but any sized thread possible for side light wing fixing

26.    Make a new Advance Retard threaded rod 47cm long from thinnest tube possible, eyelets supplied

The “discount” negotiated with xxx xxxxxx , days before Christmas was €2,455.82 for the above items, so guess the actual cost!

Some of the parts involved in the previous page

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Replacement fuel tank cover made from a very old template and no fuel stop cover, so we estimated the travel

New aluminum front  floorboard end plate, replacing a rotten piece with few measurements available

Radiator fitted and new handmade slat mechanism works for 1st time in 50 years

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